Monday, December 8, 2008

47) Swimming - or bobbing - with Tutumairekurai

Off the coast of NZ is a small population of the smallest and amongst the rarest species of dolphin - Hector's Dolphin (Cephalorhynchus hectori). The Maori name Tutumairekurai means "special ocean dweller).

"Hector's dolphins are endemic to the coastal regions of New Zealand. There are two known main populations, one on each side of the South Island. The two populations are believed to be largely cut off from one another by deep water at Cook Strait and at the south-west tip of the South Island. The species seems unwilling or unable to cross areas of deep water. The total population was estimated to be around 3,500 in the mid-1980s. A more recent survey suggested a total population of approximately 7,250 individuals. A notable population exists at Akaroa..."

"... thirty years ago there were over 26,000 Hector's and Maui's dolphins. Today, due to human activity, there is a struggling population of around 7,270 Hector's dolphins - and Maui's are the rarest marine dolphins in the world with around 110 left" - WWF Apr. 2007

Hey people - dolphin friendly tuna only OK?

Black Cat tours runs a nice tour that gets you in the water with these little guys. It is quite an operation, outfitting us all in wetsuits and masks and snorkels. Although advertised as "swimming with the dolphins," it's safe to say that the dolphins were the real swimmers, we were the "bobbers." The water temps = 15 C so they provided us with a full heavyweight wetsuit and booties. Let's just say buoyancy was NOT an issue! What *was* hard was keeping in an upright position to look around and keep an eye out for the dolphins--you'd look out for the dorsal fin coming towards you, then you'd put your face under water to see them next to you!





As you head out into the bay first one, then 2 then 3 come in to cruise the bow wave. Peter, our Scottish guide (now imagine - a Kiwi accent underlain with Scottish brogue....). He pronounces - "this is looking good." He wants playful, interested dolphins - "friendlies" who are finished with brekkie and want to come check out the rubber people!







Once we found some interested dolphins, we are instructed to step carefully into the water and form a loose circle (10 people) with a few meters between us. This was so the dolphins could swim among us. With the waves and the current and the awkwardness of feeling like an inflated balloon in a Macy's Thanksgiving parade (or a Michelin-man), there wasn't alot of graceful maneuvering, but we are thrilled to be amongst the playful dolphins!

They advise us not to splash around alot, so as not to scare the dolphins, but one look at Nancy in her mask and snorkel, and you'd think they'd all stay away! But the dolphins were playfully darting to and fro, cavorting and weaving in and out and jumping up and zooming around, with all of us squealing and laughing! They would come from behind you and race past just inches away.... pretty amazing....

Our guide considers bobbing with 3-5 dolphins a really good swim. We were lucky - 2-3 pods came to play with the rubber-clad people. At one point he counted 15-20 dolphins!







We had a dolphin researcher on the boat with us, who was trying to determine how to encourage play in the dolphins. She provided us with two small rocks to tap together underwater, which seemed attract the dolphins. We passed the rocks from person to person, being careful not to drop our "toy" into the depths. Also at one point, Dirk had three dolphins surrounding him for several moments while he snapped photos!




After being in the water with the dolphins for about 45 minutes or an hour, we regretfully boarded the boat to warm up and drink hot chocolate and pour warm water down our wetsuits. As we slowly cruised back towards the harbor, our dolphin friends still wanted to play--they zipped in and out, surfing the bow wave and jumping in front of the boat! We only did this for a few minutes, though, before speeding up and leaving our new friends behind. Our guides don't want the dolphins to be attracted to (and hurt by) the boats, so they limit the time at the slower speeds.







Yep - that's what they looked like!














Oh, frabjous day, calloo callay,the joy of being a playful dolphin in a clear blue sea!

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