25) Surfing the back wave

We jaunted down to "Snapper Rocks" and Greenmont Beach which are home to "arguably some of the finest surfing breaks in Australia" and "one of the best known surf breaks in the world." In the area "the atmosphere on the water re wave selection and positioning is aggressive and at times even tribal." Gumbies need not apply! They won't let me go out there but I can watch!

But we found something even more fun down at an old concrete breakwater right at the Snapper Rocks. The huge concrete break wall has a 2.5 m vertical seaward wall. So the swell rolls in and reflects back out. There was a group of 8 kids on boogie boards out there - it looked insane when I first saw it - if you rode a wave in you would hit the wall headfirst!

But they were not riding IN - they were catching the backwave and riding OUT! Every so often, as waveforms tend to do, an incoming wave would reinforce an outgoing wave and - wham - 4-5 m high explosions - with you on your boogieboard right on top!

It was CRAZY!

Makes Waterworld rides look downright placid.....











........ I have to go get one of those boards........