Last week was a nervous time - 2 big cyclones (hurricanes for you folks on the other side of the equator) formed up N. Ului was ranked as the strongest cyclone on record when it formed up out in the islands. It dawdled along for days, weakening, strengthening. It did make landfall
up by Mackay as a category 3 (out of five). Tremendous tree damage, flooding, power outages and a reported 45 cm rain (17 in). Down here we were supposed to have 10 foot waves.
So in the lead up to the big surf arrival, I braved the 5-7 waves. After a few false starts and big-time wave munchings in the "chewy" shore break, and I got "out back" - which is kite talk for "beyond the surf break". It was unreal - lines of foam on the surface, the water was iridescent turquoise-blue from all the
entrained air from the OUTER break which was over head high when it broke. Just huge curling, foaming waves breaking on the outer sandbar. There was spooky smooth water between waves. I came over the outer wave set and I swear I was looking at 10' drop off the BACK of the wave. I didn't know they could be so steep on the seaward side. It was a serious moment of "don't f*** up. Run away. Run away now - Get the hell out of here!". I headed back in with a monster wave hissing right behind my heels and licking the back of my board.... don't fall or this thing will roll you up like a damp newspaper.
.....Way cool.
Serious adrenaline....so I headed back out - it is just ridiculously fun to be out there somewhere so elemental....
There be monsters out there....
(photos are of Jim and Mika the day after - the surf is down quite a bit)
A Scale breasted Lori at our birdbaths...
1 comment:
Glad you guys were spared, though I feel for the areas that got hit. Growing up in the Houston area, I've dealt with more hurricanes that I care to. They can be really nasty!
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