20) Clipping Bolts in Brissy

We finally tracked down the errant climbing shoes and headed out for our first venture onto Aussie rock - the famous international destination at Kangaroo Point. Easy to get to - Drive N on the M1 to Brisbane. Stop in the center of town on the river and voila - Kangaroo Cliffs.

We parked on the street and peered over the edge - a row of concrete bollards for TR anchors festoon the cliff edge, a narrow park lies along the river, complete with barbies, artwork, picnic tables, lights for night climbing, a bikepath, and a 15-22 m ignimbrite (Brisbane welded tuff - 220 myo) cliff. The towers of downtown Brisbane, the yachts anchored on the river, and the smell of "sausage sizzle" make this the ultimate QLD urban climbing spot!

We navigated the approach without incident (I might add we lost our guidebook some where in the house so this was no mean feat. Reminiscent of getting to 3rd Pillar of Dana. Here is Nancy on "the approach")



It is mostly sport routes - some with gear. But the common "carrot bolts" make it seem more like sketchy trad climbing. It is an old quarry so there are a few drill hole holds and the rock is pretty solid. Very crimpy with the occasional snarly finger chewing pocket. There is a consistent horizontal joint pattern - many of the holds are large but ever-so-slightly sloping out.


With 3 months of not climbing, a new area, no guidebook, strange rock, locals who convinced us that the best warm-up was = 5.7 (a check in the guide later suggests that the locals enjoyed baiting the yanks onto a 5.10 a/b) we enjoyed a fine afternoon of remembering how to climb and dogging on the occasional bolt.

But some of the newer AU climbers take their new-wave bolting quite seriously! You can wrap an entire runner around these bad boys. Not too many routes in this area so we are going to got back for some firsts.






















When the weather gets hot the river offers a pleasant respite. But I think night climbing is where its a. Unlike the famous Eldo night ascents, you don't even have to bring your own headlamp!